Trekking Machu Picchu is easier said than done. Up, down, up, down, steeper and steeper steps. You turn a corner and suddenly you find you are on a step at the side of the mountain, with nothing between you and the great beyond, If you fall, say a prayer, you'll be off to meet your maker.
The next mountain over from Machu Picchu, called Huyana Picchu, meaing greater peak, is even scarier. Several members of our tour group decided to climb it. It's a sheer climb up the rock face.
George and I discussed it for about 30 seconds. He claimed he wasn't game (I think he was, but he knew I wasn't. I'm terribly afraid of heights. So why you ask yourself am I climbing Machu Picchu in the first place. Because of the thrill. And to be able to say I did it. But Huyana Picchu is much more challenging, taller, and includes the prospect of having to watch ever step as you climb back down if you make it up. That's the part that terrifies me.
So we simply continuing climbing Machu Picchu. At parts my breath gets stuck in my chest. George gets ahead of me, looks back and a dot of worry frowns his face. He comes back toward me. "Ok?" he asks. "Yes," I whisper, "but will you hold my hand around this next part?"
My strong and loving husband helped to ensure that an anxiety attack didn't keep me from progressing.
It's not like the U.S. Spots like this would be roped off, corralling you down a very narrow center pathway, with something to hold on to. Not in Machu Picchu. It's you and the gods and the great beyond, as you climb higher, teetering in some places on the very edge of the mountain.
Machu Picchu is a deeply spiritual place. (Do you remember Shirley Maclaine's out-of-body experience in the Temple of the Sun in Machu Picchu. I like Shirley, but didn't put much stock in any of that until I stood in the place where she stood. It's a deeply moving experience. Incas worshipped here, building temples to the sun and the moon. You feel that spirt suurounding you. At one point I found tears dropping down my face in both joy and sadness -- joy to have made it so far -- and sadness that my son was not here to see it with us.
It was the year after the death of my only child but I felt his presence with me just as surely as if he were physically there. There is somethig mystical and magical about this place.
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Friday, January 29, 2010
Wining and Dining in Peru
One of the things I love most about international travel is the opportunity to experience and interact with different cultures.
Enjoying the local cuisine is a primo way to do this. While Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern from the Travel Channel don’t have to worry about their jobs, within reason, I will try the local delicacies when we’re abroad.
In Peru, that included cuy chactado – grilled guinea pig (once eaten by Incan royalty). And no, Virginia, it does NOT taste like chicken. What’s that saying? It’s an “acquired taste?” Well, I did not acquire it. Tasted sort of like what I imagine the bottom of my hiking shoes would taste like, only with quite a bit more grease.
Shrimp ceviche – ceviche is made with fresh fish, shrimp or other seafood marinated in lemon juice and chili peppers and served with boiled yucca, sometimes garnished with seaweed. (After several of the folks in our tour group decided not to listen to our tour guide’s suggested restaurants for dinner and ended up with a case of Montezumi’s revenge serious enough to require medical treatment (one of whom missed the hike through Machu Picchu – I felt terrible for him) – I decided that the only place I would try seafood caught from coastal waters was at our hotel in Lima at the end of the trip. That was a wise choice. It was quite delicious and I lived to tell the tale.
Chicken – was served everywhere and in a variety of ways. All tasty.
Some things I wasn’t brave enough to try – Inka Kola, a sweet, gold-colored, bubble gum flavored soft drink. I stuck with Coca Cola (heavier tasting than Coke in the U.S and in many places Diet Coke, my preference, was unavailable.)
No fresh fruits or vegetables – nothing washed in water. One travel mantra I stick to, no matter what.
Generally, I found Peruvian fare to be mildly spicy (I love really hot spices), and OK. I didn't starve, but I also didn't experience anything I'd really write home about. We ate in "safe" restaurants -- maybe that was the problem. But I’m glad I had the chance to give new Peruvian things a try!
Enjoying the local cuisine is a primo way to do this. While Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern from the Travel Channel don’t have to worry about their jobs, within reason, I will try the local delicacies when we’re abroad.
In Peru, that included cuy chactado – grilled guinea pig (once eaten by Incan royalty). And no, Virginia, it does NOT taste like chicken. What’s that saying? It’s an “acquired taste?” Well, I did not acquire it. Tasted sort of like what I imagine the bottom of my hiking shoes would taste like, only with quite a bit more grease.
Shrimp ceviche – ceviche is made with fresh fish, shrimp or other seafood marinated in lemon juice and chili peppers and served with boiled yucca, sometimes garnished with seaweed. (After several of the folks in our tour group decided not to listen to our tour guide’s suggested restaurants for dinner and ended up with a case of Montezumi’s revenge serious enough to require medical treatment (one of whom missed the hike through Machu Picchu – I felt terrible for him) – I decided that the only place I would try seafood caught from coastal waters was at our hotel in Lima at the end of the trip. That was a wise choice. It was quite delicious and I lived to tell the tale.
Chicken – was served everywhere and in a variety of ways. All tasty.
Some things I wasn’t brave enough to try – Inka Kola, a sweet, gold-colored, bubble gum flavored soft drink. I stuck with Coca Cola (heavier tasting than Coke in the U.S and in many places Diet Coke, my preference, was unavailable.)
No fresh fruits or vegetables – nothing washed in water. One travel mantra I stick to, no matter what.
Generally, I found Peruvian fare to be mildly spicy (I love really hot spices), and OK. I didn't starve, but I also didn't experience anything I'd really write home about. We ate in "safe" restaurants -- maybe that was the problem. But I’m glad I had the chance to give new Peruvian things a try!
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Cuzco: the center of the world
We traveled through Cuzco (the state and city of the same of name), which was the center of the Incan Empire.
The four ruins closest to Cuzco are Sacsayhuaman, Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay. We visited each of these during our stay, before heading to Machu Picchu.
Sacsahuaman, which in Quecha means 'satisfied falcon' is an immense ruin in the immediate Cuzco area. It's hard to imagine as you look at it, that what remains today is only 20% of the original structure. Spaniards tore down the walls and used the blocks for their houses in Cuzco, leaving behind only the largest and most impressive rocks.
Here George treks through the Sacsayhuaman ruins.
The stone structures are just magnificant, overlooking Cuzco.
Tambo Machay, near the main road, is a beautiful, ceremonial stone bath, which channels spring water through fountains which still function today.
Just across the main road from Tambo Machay, is Puca Pucara. In certain light, the rocks look pink and the name literally translated means "red fort." It's believed to have been a hunting lodge, guard post or perhaps stopping point for travelers.
Did you know that despite the lasting legacy of the Incas, the Incan Empire only existed for nearly a century? From 1438-1532 the Incan Empire was as its peak. It's astounding to view these ruins that have lasted for so long and imagine the work, with crude tools and implements, that went into creating them. Structures that have stood the test of time and now draw millions of people to walk amidst their splendor.
The four ruins closest to Cuzco are Sacsayhuaman, Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay. We visited each of these during our stay, before heading to Machu Picchu.
Sacsahuaman, which in Quecha means 'satisfied falcon' is an immense ruin in the immediate Cuzco area. It's hard to imagine as you look at it, that what remains today is only 20% of the original structure. Spaniards tore down the walls and used the blocks for their houses in Cuzco, leaving behind only the largest and most impressive rocks.
The stone structures are just magnificant, overlooking Cuzco.
Tambo Machay, near the main road, is a beautiful, ceremonial stone bath, which channels spring water through fountains which still function today.
Just across the main road from Tambo Machay, is Puca Pucara. In certain light, the rocks look pink and the name literally translated means "red fort." It's believed to have been a hunting lodge, guard post or perhaps stopping point for travelers.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Best travel deals 2010
I caught the tail end of a piece on the Today show this morning, covering great travel deals for 2010.
Some of the items mentioned -- cruises -- 7-day cruises to the Caribbean can be found for $375 through March. Lots of cruise lines like Royal Carribbean built new, larger ships last year and would rather sail with those rooms sold at ridiculuously reduced prices rather than sailing with them empty.
China -- Shanghai - $1399 per person. China spent lots in 2008 to build infrastructure for the Olympics and hasn't rreally started recouping that money yet. Lots of good deals to Shanghai and Beijing.
South Africa -- The President of South Africa has recently said that 2010 would be the best opportunity to vacation there in years. The FIFA world soccer championships are being held there this summer. That won't be the best time to get a deal -- but before and after, round trips can be purchased for $2500 -- unheard of for a trip to SA.
Las Vegas -- Town Center recently built hoping to bring tourists back. Good deals to be had there.
More might have been mentioned. Check it out at todayshow.com.
Some of the items mentioned -- cruises -- 7-day cruises to the Caribbean can be found for $375 through March. Lots of cruise lines like Royal Carribbean built new, larger ships last year and would rather sail with those rooms sold at ridiculuously reduced prices rather than sailing with them empty.
China -- Shanghai - $1399 per person. China spent lots in 2008 to build infrastructure for the Olympics and hasn't rreally started recouping that money yet. Lots of good deals to Shanghai and Beijing.
South Africa -- The President of South Africa has recently said that 2010 would be the best opportunity to vacation there in years. The FIFA world soccer championships are being held there this summer. That won't be the best time to get a deal -- but before and after, round trips can be purchased for $2500 -- unheard of for a trip to SA.
Las Vegas -- Town Center recently built hoping to bring tourists back. Good deals to be had there.
More might have been mentioned. Check it out at todayshow.com.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Tour company makes good ....and where the heck are those altitude sickness drugs?
I jumped ahead a bit by posting photos of Machu Picchu. I really should go back to the beginning.
After we hooked up with our tour company, they took good care of us -- paid for our hotel stay, comped our first two dinners to make up for our little misadventure in Lima. You can't get batter customer service than that. In case you're wondering, I booked the trip online through Traveland.com. Their incountry tour company was Peru Classic Tours. Both were outstanding. I highly recommend them.
Machu Picchu was actually the last stop on the tour. After hooking up with the tour group we were taken to our hotel in Cusco. We started by seeing ruins at the highest elevation of the trip in the Andes Mountains, Sacsayhuaman, at 14,000 feet, then worked our way back through Cusco, and its surroundings, before ending at Machu Picchu, a mere 8,000 feet. The idea is that by the time you get to the premier destination, you'll have acclimated to the altitude. Good thing for me that was the plan.
At Sacsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman by tourists), I could barely finish walking the ruins. I was so dizzy and nauseaus, George had to help me get back to the van. Only an idiot would have left their altitude drugs in the hotel rather than bringing them along -- hmmmm -- what can I say?
Mountain 1, Emma 0. Better days are coming.
After we hooked up with our tour company, they took good care of us -- paid for our hotel stay, comped our first two dinners to make up for our little misadventure in Lima. You can't get batter customer service than that. In case you're wondering, I booked the trip online through Traveland.com. Their incountry tour company was Peru Classic Tours. Both were outstanding. I highly recommend them.
Machu Picchu was actually the last stop on the tour. After hooking up with the tour group we were taken to our hotel in Cusco. We started by seeing ruins at the highest elevation of the trip in the Andes Mountains, Sacsayhuaman, at 14,000 feet, then worked our way back through Cusco, and its surroundings, before ending at Machu Picchu, a mere 8,000 feet. The idea is that by the time you get to the premier destination, you'll have acclimated to the altitude. Good thing for me that was the plan.
At Sacsayhuaman (pronounced Sexy Woman by tourists), I could barely finish walking the ruins. I was so dizzy and nauseaus, George had to help me get back to the van. Only an idiot would have left their altitude drugs in the hotel rather than bringing them along -- hmmmm -- what can I say?
Mountain 1, Emma 0. Better days are coming.
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Some great images of the people of Peru
I shot some fabulous photos of Peruvians all along the way, and want to share a few of them with you here.
First the beautiful children. These little ones were helping their mother who was selling handmade blankets, ponchos, hats, and other wares at a roadside stand. They played for each a bit, then decide to sit back and relax.
This little girl was playing with a small rock, on top of a small boulder. Although poor, children every where around the world can find joy in the smallest things.
First the beautiful children. These little ones were helping their mother who was selling handmade blankets, ponchos, hats, and other wares at a roadside stand. They played for each a bit, then decide to sit back and relax.
A future GQ model.
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Security at last in Machu Picchu
When finally settled in the new hotel, I asked the front desk clerk to help me call our tour contact. She said, "oh no, wait until the morning." Problem -- we were supposed to meet up with our tour group at 6 a.m. to begin the trip. Since the tour officials didn't meet us at the airport, we were not provided with any information on where or when to meet.It was to be given to us when they met us. If we can't catch up with our tour in the morning, I'm outta here. Heading back to the airport and home. Chalking this up to an expensive lesson learned.
Although the desk clerk wouldn't help me, I figured out how to use the phone and call the number. I reached Allissa. -- "oh Ms. Inman," she explained in her chirpy voice. "We have been looking for you." She gave me all the details we needed and agreed to pick us up at 5:30 a.m. After she spoke with the clerk who explained exactly where we were, the plans were set.
Not believing that this was actually going to work out as planned, I refused to sleep fore the remaining 3 hours. Stayed dressed; laid on top of my bed, and read a book. Sleep is vastly overrated when kidnapping is still on your mind.
At 5:40 a.m., late enough for an inkling of worry to set in, she arrived, and we were off. All is well. And we began a 10 day adventure of hiking, seeing ancient ruins and the ultimate in the last few days of the trip, Machu Picchu.
Here is one of my photos of Machu Picchu. The views were stellar. This was early morning as the foggy mist was rising off the mountain.
Although the desk clerk wouldn't help me, I figured out how to use the phone and call the number. I reached Allissa. -- "oh Ms. Inman," she explained in her chirpy voice. "We have been looking for you." She gave me all the details we needed and agreed to pick us up at 5:30 a.m. After she spoke with the clerk who explained exactly where we were, the plans were set.
Not believing that this was actually going to work out as planned, I refused to sleep fore the remaining 3 hours. Stayed dressed; laid on top of my bed, and read a book. Sleep is vastly overrated when kidnapping is still on your mind.
At 5:40 a.m., late enough for an inkling of worry to set in, she arrived, and we were off. All is well. And we began a 10 day adventure of hiking, seeing ancient ruins and the ultimate in the last few days of the trip, Machu Picchu.
Here is one of my photos of Machu Picchu. The views were stellar. This was early morning as the foggy mist was rising off the mountain.
Machu Picchu Peru 2005
One of the most outstanding trips we've ever taken was to Machu Picchu in 2005. But I have to say, the trip didn't start out that way.
We arrived in Lima after a few flight delays at about 2 a.m. The discount tour company that I had booked through online was supposed to have someone meet us at the airport. No one was there. No problem, I thought. We'll snag a taxi and head to our hotel. It had been a long day and we were absolutely beat.
We flagged a taxi and I showed our Spanish-speaking driver the hotel address on my itinerary. After 20 minutes of driving-- the last 10 minutes or so of which seemed to be through slums, with drunks wandering the street--we arrived at the address. The hotel was closed. And I mean really closed. Some windows broken out, others boarded up. Tape across the entrance.
Our driver drove around the block, checking addresses as we circled and arrived back where we started. He looked back at us and in a tentative, questioning voice said, "closed." By this time, I'm thinking I've been had. I'm in a foreign country. The tour company has several thousand dollars of our hard earned cash. Is this one of those countries where Americans get kidnapped and their families have to pay exorbitant ransoms to get them back? I'm from a poor family, nobody's paying much to get me back. And my husband's family isn't a whole lot better off.
Horrible images start floating through my head. Am I ever going to get home?
The driver looked back at us again and said something like, "I know a place." Or at least that's what we thought he said.
He drove a few minutes and we arrived at a new hotel. Now, I'm really worried about the kidnapping scenario. Is the new "hotel" in on the scam? We get dropped here and can't get out?
My "Spanish for travelers" CD has left me woefully unprepared for this. What to do now???
We arrived in Lima after a few flight delays at about 2 a.m. The discount tour company that I had booked through online was supposed to have someone meet us at the airport. No one was there. No problem, I thought. We'll snag a taxi and head to our hotel. It had been a long day and we were absolutely beat.
We flagged a taxi and I showed our Spanish-speaking driver the hotel address on my itinerary. After 20 minutes of driving-- the last 10 minutes or so of which seemed to be through slums, with drunks wandering the street--we arrived at the address. The hotel was closed. And I mean really closed. Some windows broken out, others boarded up. Tape across the entrance.
Our driver drove around the block, checking addresses as we circled and arrived back where we started. He looked back at us and in a tentative, questioning voice said, "closed." By this time, I'm thinking I've been had. I'm in a foreign country. The tour company has several thousand dollars of our hard earned cash. Is this one of those countries where Americans get kidnapped and their families have to pay exorbitant ransoms to get them back? I'm from a poor family, nobody's paying much to get me back. And my husband's family isn't a whole lot better off.
Horrible images start floating through my head. Am I ever going to get home?
The driver looked back at us again and said something like, "I know a place." Or at least that's what we thought he said.
He drove a few minutes and we arrived at a new hotel. Now, I'm really worried about the kidnapping scenario. Is the new "hotel" in on the scam? We get dropped here and can't get out?
My "Spanish for travelers" CD has left me woefully unprepared for this. What to do now???
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Looking back before moving ahead
This year, my husband George and I celebrate our 25th wedding anniversary. What better excuse to travel? Tour company identified -- airline tickets purchased. But wait, I'm getting ahead of myself.
Before I talk about the trip to come, I'd like to reminisce and think about a few trips gone by. Places I would love to see again or some, not so much.
We've met some interesting people along the way and have memories that will last a lifetime.
Over the next few months as I gear up for the trip this fall, I'd like to share some of those memories with you as well as tell you about our upcoming plans. This will be one to remember.
Before I talk about the trip to come, I'd like to reminisce and think about a few trips gone by. Places I would love to see again or some, not so much.
We've met some interesting people along the way and have memories that will last a lifetime.
Over the next few months as I gear up for the trip this fall, I'd like to share some of those memories with you as well as tell you about our upcoming plans. This will be one to remember.
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